The Bedford by Martha Dugald Stewart at Paris Las Vegas is the in style(p) eatery to follow scolded by New York Times food critic Pete Wells.
Wells is notorious for panning restaurants, both new and old. He made many headlines in the fall of 2019 for lambasting Brooklyn’s Simon Peter Luger Steak House, often considered ane of the nation’s best steakhouses. Herbert George Wells gave St. Peter the Apostle Luger cipher stars inwards a vituperative review, concluding that the steaks are “far from the topper New House of York has to offer.”
Wells has been the Times’ restaurant critic since succeeding Sam Sifton in Nov 2011. While Wells focuses on eateries inward New House of York City, the critic lately travelled to Las Vegas to chink come out The Bedford, billed as Stewart’s first restaurant.
Wells didn’t the like the experience.
The nutrient critic says Stewart is known for instruction her fans and viewers virtually the comforts and pleasures of hosting and entertaining, though that falls plane inward Las Vegas. H. G. Wells says Stewart’s stir on The Bedford is minuscule more than her name, as dining in that location “is to a lesser extent a participatory activity than a spectator sport.”
Wells says Caesars Entertainment, which operates the City of Light casino and resort, said The Bedford is owned past the gambling casino companionship and is using Stewart’s figure through and through a licensing partnership.
“In other words, The Bedford is non Ms. Stewart’s ‘first restaurant,’ as many intelligence reports experience said,” Herbert George Wells wrote in his Tuesday review. “It is not, in fact, ‘hers’ at all. She is neither an proprietor nor the chef.”
“It is almost certainly, however, the number 1 Martha Stewart-themed restaurant,” H. G. Wells determined.
Food Panned
Wells described a rather ho-hum, overpriced dining experience at Stewart’s Las Vegas restaurant. The critic said the baked tater he was served was tepid and overprized at $15.95, spell the $89.95 unit roasted Gallus gallus was “on its way of life toward elbow room temperature, too.”
Wells said the steak tartare at $27.95 was “distractingly sweet.” The $29.95 oysters John Davison Rockefeller seemed to be missing the Pernod cream sauce, which allowed the sliced prickly-seeded spinach and watercress to pose “a mulched-grass grain that might feature been produced by the bright-orange mower that Ms. Dugald Stewart one time rode around her farm to the enjoy of her Instagram followers.”
Wells did high spot some strong points of the restaurant, to wit the breadstuff basket and pierogis. But as for The Bedford marketing the eatery as an bona fide experience that Dugald Stewart provides her folk and guests at her statuesque New House of York farmhouse inward the Bedford hamlet, H. G. Wells cautions potentiality diners to looking elsewhere for a reservation.
I someways doubtfulness that Ms. James Maitland Stewart slaps baked potatoes on a cart when she has friends o'er for dinner,” Wells critiqued. “The cookery is supposed to be as satisfying and reassuring as the pierogi, but often of it lands somewhere between drilling and careless.”
Wells was equally difficult on Guy Fieri, another famous person restauranteur who operates “Guy’s American Kitchen & Bar” inward Las Vegas at The Linq. While reviewing Fieri’s Times Square location inward 2012, Wells said the intellectual nourishment is “as non seen on TV.”
Public Disagrees
The Bedford past Martha Dugald Stewart opened inwards mid-August, and patch H. G. Wells wasn’t a fan, to the highest degree others who hold issued public reviews get predominantly presumption the restaurant luxuriously marks.
Of the 69 reviews on Google, The Bedford averages a rating of 3.9/5 stars — not bad for a young restaurant.
“We had such a lovely meal!” said local guide on Jason Eaton-Lynch. “Absolutely delicious,” added Google reviewer Jess Johnson.
Ryan Levine, another Las Vegas local guide, said Stewart’s restaurant was “a wonderful experience,” and the food was “phenomenal.” Another Southern NV resident, Katie Shipley, said it was “one of the topper meals commence to finish” she’s ever had inward Las Vegas.